Illampu Circuit - Bikepacking Version

141 km

5 days

5330 m

98% offroad

The Ilampu Circuit is a trekking route at the northern end of the Cordillera Real in Bolivia. Over several passes, it circumnavigates the Illampu, at 6368 meters the fourth highest mountain of the Cordillera Real.  A wild region, barely known, rarely visited. But inspired by Cass Gilbert's and Michael Dammer's bikepacking routes, which end respectively start at the southern end of the Illampu in Sorata, we took a closer look at the surroundings.  Lo and behold: The satellite image showed us a jeep track over the two main passes, the 5090 meter high Abra de la Calzada and the Sarani pass, so that we could expand the original trekking route with the connecting road over Cooco, Ancoma and Sorata to a bikepacking circuit. And what a bikepacking route it is!  Eye in eye with the glaciers of the mighty Illampu, always in sight with "the god of storms", this track can not boast as the longest bikepacking tour in the Andes, but as one of the most spectacular!

Route / Terrain

The bikepacking version of the Illampu circuit is best started in Achacachi, a chaotic town at the foothills of the Illampu. The city is easily accessible by bus from La Paz. A direct start from Achacachi, however, necessarily requires a prior altitude acclimatization, as the first stage goes directly over the Calzada Pass. You can spend some acclimatization days either in La Paz or in the friendlier Copacabana on Lake Titicaca. From Copacabana you can ride in one day on dirt roads to Achacachi, perfect to warm-up the legs for the real stuff and to get used to the altitude.

Another option is to combine the Illampu Circuit with the previous ride of the Mama Coca Bikepacking Route from La Paz. The section from Laguna Q'ara Kota to Laguna Cacha is not to be underestimated because of the many trackless passages (50% hike-a-bike, detour over the road in the valley to San Juan de Chachacomani is highly recommended).

From Achacachi (or the Laguna Cacha) it is best do ride the circuit counterclockwise. The dirt tracks are rough, in the climbs to the passes, it is inevitable to push some sections because of the steepness and the altitude. Light equipment is the key for the circuit to be fun.

Infrastructure / Logistics

There are supply possibilities in Achacachi, in the small mountain village Cooco and Sorata. Special products such as cereal bars, dried fruit, etc. should be bought in La Paz or Copacabana. The small shop in Cooco was surprisingly well stocked (milk powder, avena, bread, vegetables and fruits) but this can change depending on the supply situation!  Camping is in the region of Abra Calzada and also in the valley after Sarani pass out of sight of the road well possible. Otherwise you can ask in Cooco and the almost extinct Ancoma if you can stay at the school. Water (for filtering) is available almost everywhere. We did not specifically track this (except on the rather dry stretch from Ancoma).

Difficulty

Although the Illampu Circuit is a short route, it should not be underestimated.  The permanent altitude between 4000 and 5000 meters, four passes with steep climbs and washed-out tracks require serious acclimatization, good condition and careful preparation. Abra de la Calzada was covered with snow at the end of July in the dry season. The circuit should only be tackled in good weather conditions.

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